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Sámi culture in Rovaniemi: where to learn, and what to avoid

A snow-laden spruce on an open snowy fell with a low winter sun behind thin cloud and a few small trees and a cabin in the distance
Illustration photo: a snowy fell in low winter light.

The short answer

Learn about the Sámi from museums, books and Sámi-run businesses, and be wary of anything in Rovaniemi that sells itself as a Sámi experience. Rovaniemi is not in the Sámi Homeland, and the Sámi Parliament has set out that tourism which invents traditions and passes them off as Sámi, or dresses non-Sámi people in Sámi clothing for visitors, exploits the culture. If Sámi culture is the purpose of your trip, the Homeland is further north.

Many visitors arrive in Rovaniemi expecting to meet Sámi culture, and the town does not always correct them. It helps to start from what the Sámi themselves have written down, because the Sámi Parliament in Finland has done exactly that.

Rovaniemi is not in the Sámi Homeland

The Sámi Homeland in Finland is the northern part of Lapland: the municipalities of Enontekiö, Inari and Utsjoki in full, and the northern part of Sodankylä around Vuotso.1 Rovaniemi lies well to the south of it.

That does not mean there are no Sámi in Rovaniemi. It means that a tourist product in Rovaniemi presenting itself as the Sámi way of life deserves a second look, and that a trip built around Sámi culture belongs further north.

What the Sámi Parliament calls exploitation

In 2018 the Parliament adopted principles for responsible and ethically sustainable Sámi tourism. Their main aim is to end tourism that exploits Sámi culture and to remove false information about the Sámi from tourism.1

Two ideas in them are worth knowing before you book anything. The first is the invented tradition: something made up for a purpose and presented as an old custom. The principles call the product sold to tourists as a “Lapland baptism” one of the most blatant examples, an invention with no basis in Sámi culture that shows the Sámi as dirty and primitive. In the same category they put cheap imported “handicrafts” marketed as Sámi, stories made up for tourism and claimed to be Sámi, imitations of joik, and linking the Sámi with fairy-tale figures such as Santa Claus. The touristic use of the drum, part of the Sámi spiritual tradition, they count as cultural appropriation.3

The second is the borrowed tradition, a custom taken from another culture and planted where it does not belong, and the example the Parliament gives may surprise visitors to Lapland. It names touristic dog sledding, which it says the tourist industry brought into Lapland in the 1980s, as a particularly damaging and culturally unsustainable borrowed tradition, in strong conflict with reindeer herding in some areas, and it says that marketing dog sledding to tourists in the Sámi Homeland should stop. Its other example is the tourist structures called igloos.3

This page takes no position of its own on it; it is the Parliament’s view, stated plainly, and anyone booking a husky safari in the far north should know it exists.

Tripadvisor ratings, 18 Rovaniemi operators

Highest first
Snowtrail Safaris 5.0
Nordic Odyssey 5.0
Nordic Adventures 4.9
Arctic GM 4.9
Book Lapland 4.9
Bearhill Husky 4.9
Arctic Attitude 4.9
StayLapland 4.8
Wild About Lapland 4.7
Wild Nordic 4.7
Lapland Winter Park 4.6
Safartica 4.5
Nordic Unique Travels 4.5
Apukka Resort 4.4
Lapland Welcome 4.3
Arctic Circle Snowmobile Park 4.3
Arctic Circle Husky Park 4.2
Raitola 3.4

Ratings read from Tripadvisor. The shaded compartment left of the divider holds any score below 4.0. We record the score only; review counts and review text are not part of our comparison.

How to be a good guest

The Parliament’s visitor guidance is short and direct. Private people do not wear Sámi dress for tourists. Enter someone’s home, yard or reindeer fence only as an invited guest, and get to know the reindeer only with their owner’s guidance; do not frighten them. Favour Sámi products and services.2

Where to learn

The guidance’s own answer is books and museums.2 In Rovaniemi, the regional museum at Arktikum is the place to start, and the guide to Rovaniemi’s museums covers its tickets and hours. For the reindeer themselves, as animals and as a livelihood, a reindeer farm visit is the honest introduction, as long as it is presented as what it is.

Sources

  1. Sámi Parliament in FinlandEthical Guidelines for Sámi Tourismsamediggi.fi ↩
  2. Sámi Parliament in FinlandVisitor Guidance – Responsible Tourism in Sámi Homelandmatkailu.samediggi.fi ↩
  3. Sámi Parliament in Finland (Saamelaiskäräjät)Principles for responsible and ethically sustainable Sámi tourism, adopted 24 September 2018 (in Finnish)matkailu.samediggi.fi ↩

Questions people ask

Can we photograph people in Sámi dress?

Ask first, every time, and if the answer is no, accept it. The Sámi Parliament's guidance is clear that private persons do not wear Sámi dress for tourists, so someone in a gákti is not part of a show and is not there to be photographed. In Rovaniemi, where the Homeland is a long way off, a costume worn to pose for tourists is more likely to be one of the practices the guidance warns against than a glimpse of Sámi life.

Is a reindeer farm visit a Sámi experience?

Not necessarily. Reindeer herding is practised by Finns as well as Sámi, and a farm near Rovaniemi is not in the Sámi Homeland. A visit can be a good introduction to reindeer and herding, but treat any claim that it is Sámi culture with care unless the farm says plainly who runs it. The Parliament's guidance is that traditional livelihoods are explored only as an invited and guided guest.

Where can we buy genuine Sámi handicraft?

The Parliament's advice is simply to favour Sámi products and services. In practice, buy from the maker or from a shop that names the maker and says they are Sámi, and be cautious with souvenir-shop items in Sámi colours that name no maker at all. Ask where something was made and by whom; a seller of genuine handicraft will know the answer.

Written by

Lapland Handbook Staff

Lapland Handbook is written by its editorial staff in Rovaniemi. Every price, age limit and group size in a comparison is read from the operator's own page and marked "Not stated" when the operator does not publish it. Each guide names who should not book, and names the operator that suits each kind of group, whichever it is.

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